Documentary & Photojournalism

Beira, Before the Storm

Beira, Mozambique · 2024 · For Bloomberg Green

How a coastal city devastated by Cyclone Idai built one of Africa's most closely watched early warning networks.

Photography and video by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg Green

Fishermen on the beach in Beira, Mozambique, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Fishermen on the beach in Beira.

In March 2019, Cyclone Idai struck Beira, Mozambique's fourth-largest city. It was one of the deadliest storms ever recorded in southern Africa, killing more than 1,000 people across the region and damaging or destroying most of Beira's buildings. When Cyclone Freddy hit four years later, the city fared far better. An early warning system, and a population that now takes every storm seriously, have turned Beira into an example of how cities can prepare for climate disasters.

The Grande Hotel in Beira today, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
The Grande Hotel today.

The Grande Hotel, a luxury complex built in the 1950s, has long since fallen into ruin and become home to dozens of families. During Idai, the wind tore away the zinc sheets residents had fitted as windows. Zaida Lucas Paunde, who has lived there with her partner and three children since 2015, sheltered in a ground-floor room as the storm roared past. She knew afterwards that the family should leave, but they had nowhere else to go.

Inside the Grande Hotel, a once-luxurious building now home to dozens of families, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Inside the Grande Hotel, now home to dozens of families.
Zaida Lucas Paunde, her partner and their three children inside the former hotel, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Zaida Lucas Paunde with her family inside the former hotel.

Today, a new weather radar on the edge of the city, a tower crowned with a red-and-white sphere, can spot storms up to 400 kilometres away. Its data travels to the national meteorological institute and on to the disaster management agency, which alerts a network of local partners. Radio Pax, a small station whose equipment was soaked during Idai, now broadcasts frequent warnings telling people to board up windows, sandbag their roofs and stock up on food and light. It keeps fuel for a generator so it can stay on air if the power goes down, reaching the poorest residents who have no internet.

Beira's new weather radar, which detects cyclones and sends data to Mozambique's meteorological agency, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Beira's new weather radar, which can detect storms up to 400 kilometres away.
The studio of Radio Pax, which broadcasts storm warnings, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
The studio of Radio Pax.
Suade J. Suade, director of Radio Pax, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Suade J. Suade, director of Radio Pax.

Each of Beira's 26 neighbourhoods now has an elected volunteer committee. When a storm approaches, members ride through the streets on bicycles with megaphones, telling residents how much time is left before landfall. The city has moved people away from the most exposed areas, built sea barriers, planted trees and cleared drains more often. With little money for rebuilding, Mayor Albano Carige sees resilience as the only option, and residents now ask for sandbags long before a storm arrives.

Albano Carige, mayor of Beira, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Albano Carige, mayor of Beira.

The effort reaches beyond Beira. Mozambique is one of 30 countries in the United Nations' Early Warnings for All initiative, with plans for two more radars and a weather station in every district, supported by the African Development Bank, the World Bank and other partners. Money remains the main obstacle: officials estimate that a full national early warning system would cost around 100 million dollars.

The central district of Beira, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Central Beira, home to more than 500,000 people.
A monument honouring the victims of Cyclone Idai, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
A monument to the victims of Cyclone Idai.
A street in central Beira, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
A street in central Beira.

Warnings alone are not enough. Researchers point out that forecasts measured in millimetres of rain mean little in a country with more than 20 languages and a literacy rate of around 60%, and that people moved far from work, schools and hospitals tend to drift back to danger. In Praia Nova, one of the poorest districts and among the hardest hit by Idai, life still revolves around the shore, where wooden dhows bring in dried fish to trade.

A shipwreck on Beira's coastline, battered by storms, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
A wreck on Beira's coastline, where storms are growing stronger.
Residents of Praia Nova, one of Beira's poorest districts, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Praia Nova, one of the districts hit hardest by Idai.
Flooded streets in Praia Nova, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Flooded streets in Praia Nova.

Cecilia Miguel, a 56-year-old mother of three, still lives in the house Idai damaged, earning less than 10 dollars a month from renting out a small room. She has weighed down her roof with sand-filled tyres and rocks, and built a wall of old tyres around the house. The warnings reach her, she says, but with nowhere else to go, she can only wait and hope the next cyclone spares her home.

Cecilia Miguel at her home, damaged during Cyclone Idai, photographed by Douglas Condzo for Bloomberg
Cecilia Miguel at her damaged home in Praia Nova.
Published
Bloomberg Green, 28 May 2024. The first story in the series Climate-Proofing Cities
Story
Mozambique Pioneers Cyclone Warning Network to Protect Millions
Reporting
Laura Millan, Matthew Hill and Borges Nhamirre
Photography and video
Douglas Condzo
Editor
Amanda Kolson Hurley
Photo editor
Marie Monteleone

15 photographs · Documentary & Photojournalism · Bloomberg Green · 2024